For two years amid the conflict in Gaza, all public celebrations for Christmas were called off in Bethlehem located in the West Bank. This place is where Christians believe Jesus was born.
However, after a recent truce, this sacred city determined that now celebrations would return, as represented by the illumination of its traditional, giant Christmas tree in front of the ancient Church of the Nativity.
"We have endured two difficult years without celebration; no holiday, no employment, no work," remarks the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "Our community survives on tourism and the tourist trade was down to nothing."
The mayor acknowledges that the idea to restart festivities was not without controversy, given the ongoing hardship within Gaza – which affects members of the small Christian population, who often have relatives in Bethlehem.
"Certain voices argue it is unsuitable and others say it's appropriate," Mr Canawati explains. "But deep inside my heart, I felt this constituted the correct action to do because Christmas must never be halted or abandoned. This is a beacon of hope for us."
Locals – from both Christian and Muslim faiths – pose for selfies before the tree decorated with gold and red ornaments in Manger Square. They are joined by a small number of foreign tourists.
Vibrant lights now adorn the streets with signs promoting holiday markets and children's parties.
"We're very happy to have the tree, first thing, and to welcome visitors in Bethlehem and to have the chance to celebrate Christmas in its authentic spirit," comments local jewellery designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This is where it all started, so this is where we can send the message globally of what really Christmas represents. And now, if the season is calm, then I hope it will deliver a positive message for the whole world."
The neighbouring towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also intend to illuminate Christmas trees soon. Local hotels – which have stood mostly vacant for the past two years – have an influx in reservations from Arab citizens of Israel as well as some foreign visitors.
A visitor from Russia, named Angelica, is making her second pilgrimage to this region. "I think everyone needs to come at minimum one time during their lifetime," she says.
"I wish many visitors will soon come back as it is sorrowful without many tourists. The only thing that's good is there are no lengthy queues – one can visit and see more things. When I came before it was necessary to wait in a queue for a few hours at least."
Currently, the gift shops dotted around Bethlehem have little business, and near the pale walls of the Nativity Church, which date back to the Fourth Century, guides are mostly unoccupied. Prior to the conflict, it was often crammed with visitors.
"This is a city for tourists; without tourism there is no life," expresses a guide named Hamza. "We aspire to see individuals coming back as in the past: from European nations, the Middle Eastern region, America, Latin America and all over. We start with lighting the tree, and then we will wait."
Over the last two years, joblessness has soared in Bethlehem. Following the deadly Hamas-led attacks in southern Israel in October 2023 that sparked the war, tens of thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank region have been blocked from entering Israel and its settlements to work.
At the same time, public servants have received just a portion of their salaries from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – which governs areas within the West Bank. The Authority relies on tax revenues collected by Israel, which it is withholding – amounting to 1.76 billion dollars, according to the UN's trade and development agency.
Israel says it is holding the funds because the Authority provides financial payments to Palestinian prisoners that incentivise attacks on Israelis. The authority – which has been under international pressure to enact reforms – claims it has recently changed its welfare system.
The bleak economic outlook implies that for many Christian Palestinians, despite the fact that there are currently public festivities as well as religious ceremonies, it will be an austere Christmas.
On the periphery of the square, a few customers wait to purchase sizzling balls of falafel from a row of shops.
"We're preparing for Christmas after one of our most challenging times as Palestinians and as Christians," states one restaurant owner, an owner of a restaurant called Afteem, a decades-old family-run eatery that has witnessed its revenues collapse. He says lately numerous families could not even afford falafel – a cheap, traditional food.
"Christians will try to celebrate but based on their circumstances," Mr Salameh expects. "Someone who wants to bring their children to a festival or the theatre or whatever, they lack the funds to expend for this celebration."
Within the grotto beneath the church, a resident accompanies a small Indian tour group, bending down near a silver star which marks the location where it is said Jesus was born and lighting a light nearby.
With tensions still high throughout the area, Bethlehem residents say they are hoping for tranquility – and hoping for tourists to come back to the place where it is believed where Christmas started.
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